BRITTANY: CASTLE AND SEA

Brittany, that magical region of France, hides incredible treasures in every corner. On a sunny summer day in 2019, we discovered two of them.

The Castle of Roche-Jagu.

Both sites are located near the town of Paimpol, in the southern part of the Côtes-d'Armor department.

Port of Lézardrieux.

The Church of Lézardrieux

My younger son Vlad and I, long-time lovers of Brittany, set off by bike along the Breton coast, from Paimpol to Trégastel, in the summer of 2019. When we arrived in Lézardrieux, we camped there to enjoy a cruise the following day. Before going to bed, we strolled through the town.

By bike, we slowly made our way through the church square, admiring the row of typical pink granite houses, the town hall, and of course the parish church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste (dating from the late 16th century) with its bell wall. Enchanted, we went to bed—forgetting to book the cruise.

The Passeur du Trieux

When we arrived at the port for the cruise with Le Passeur du Trieux, we were told there were no seats left. Seeing our disappointed faces, the owner kindly suggested we come back the next day. That made us even more disheartened, as we had already planned something else for that day. We thanked her for the offer and explained that our holiday schedule was tight and couldn’t be changed. Upon hearing what we had planned, she lit up with enthusiasm and invited us to join the afternoon outing—a private cruise reserved for friends.

That immediately lifted our spirits. We then had the idea to head for the Château de la Roche-Jagu, located about ten kilometres away, to pass the time until the afternoon cruise.

Castle of Roche-Jagu

It is said that the site was originally a motte-and-bailey castle, gradually transformed into a stone fortress in the 12th and 13th centuries. Destroyed during the War of the Breton Succession (1341–1365), it was rebuilt from 1405 onwards by Catherine de Troguindy, a noble lady, with the permission of Duke John V of Brittany (1389–1442). It stands atop a hill on the left bank of the Trieux River.

Steep and commanding, the site offers a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape, especially of the river it once guarded. Visitors—ourselves included—can now delight in the breathtaking scenery.

Empty of furniture, the château hosts a temporary exhibition each year, and guided tours, performances, and concerts are regularly organized there.

The Château Gardens

As we have limited time, we decide to skip the interior of the château in favour of the medieval-inspired gardens (vegetable garden, medicinal plant garden, and flower garden). These gardens are open to the public, and guided tours as well as "nature" workshops are also organized there.

The Sculptures

Sculptures by the artist Marc Didou line the paths leading to the promontory. At 12 years old, Vlad finds them very attractive, climbing on them or sitting atop them. Luckily, I managed to stop him before he took the sculptor Béatrice Coron too seriously and attempted a hands-on experience of her work, which invites us to make our "inner journey"—by climbing on them, for instance.

The "Vegetal" Dish

In January 2017, the park was awarded the Écojardin distinction, highlighting the ecological management of the site in respect of biodiversity. Probably for this reason, the château’s food stall offered only one "vegetal" dish, which left us even hungrier than before.

Saved by the Bakery

A well-stocked bakery, like all Breton bakeries, provided the perfect meal on our way back! After enjoying delicious Breton cakes next to a beautiful church, we were once again full of energy and ready for new adventures.

Vlad's Success

Upon our arrival at the port of Lézardrieux, we are invited to board the boat immediately, which had been waiting for us to depart. The captain announces to everyone that we are two new friends, good fellows who set out to discover the Breton coast by bike. People turn toward us, smile, and look at us with great sympathy and admiration, especially for Vlad, of course. And the boat starts off with a bang, following a route close to the left bank of the Trieux estuary.

The Specificity of the Port

The boat moves toward the mouth of the estuary while following the shoreline of the port of Lézardrieux, as the captain shares its story. For as long as anyone can remember, this port has been the only one in the region with access to deep water. In fact, it is not located in the sea but in the river basin of the Trieux. Therefore, it is not affected by the tides, meaning boats can come and go at any time of day or night. There's no need to check the tide schedule to plan an arrival or departure, unlike all the other ports. Bonus: it's also sheltered from winds and sea storms. The downside: reservations for a spot here are already booked until 2039 (data valid for the summer of 2019).

The White Building

As we continue our sea excursion, we spot the large white building that once served as a school for officers of the commercial navy, operating as a boarding school. Our captain studied there and earned his qualifications. He shares many memories, both from the lessons and the less... academic adventures, including secret outings to meet girls. And during his final year, the "desperate maneuvers" to fall ill and end up in the hospital—where the most beautiful girl in the world worked as a nurse. She later became his wife—the same woman who invited us to join them for this cruise. At the bottom of the photo, you can see the islet that served as the base for a German radar installation during World War II. Today, this area is still a military zone, with a French Navy ship assigned there for activities that remain shrouded in secrecy.

The House

A little further on, we spot a house built on a promontory. The captain shares the story of this house: it belonged to a local family for over a hundred years. The last owner went bankrupt and had to sell the house to pay off his debts. The asking price was too high for the local residents and fairly steep for other Breton families. But it was "pocket money" for a family of Parisians looking for a second home. These "Parisians" quickly became "Bretons" in both heart and soul. Now, they go on sailing trips every day, and we exchange smiles and cheerful greetings with them.

The Sea

And almost without realizing it, we reached the waters of the sea. We were no longer in the waters of the Trieux estuary, but in the "Great Sea," as the captain proudly announced. When I mention my inability to distinguish a difference, he replies that there are two ways to know: the first is a long training to become a sailor and learn to recognize the water in its various forms and manifestations. The second is shorter: simply wet your finger and taste it. When the taste becomes too salty, you know you're in the presence of seawater.

The Croix Lighthouse

First built between 1865 and 1867, it was partially destroyed by the Germans in 1944 to prevent small ships from being guided during their crossings to deliver supplies and ammunition to the local Resistance. It was rebuilt to the exact same design in 1949. The eastern part was painted white, and two red and yellow markers were added to indicate the channels to follow when entering or exiting the Trieux estuary. The entire structure is magnificent and unmissable.

The Ships

Sea activity never rests. During our cruise, we encountered a tugboat and a sand dredger (the lower part of the photo). The sand dredger, the red boat, has just finished its mission of collecting sand. Now that it's full, it needs the tugboat to take it back to the port. Sand dredgers are used to prevent the formation of sandbanks that could obstruct or even block navigable channels. There are also sailboats used for leisure.

The Rock of... Marriage

And the cruise couldn’t end without passing by a very important rock for the local community: the "Rock of Marriages." According to tradition, the answer to a marriage proposal depends on the ability to climb this rock. But beware, there are rules to follow: if climbing gear is used, the person being asked has the right to refuse.

However, if the rock is climbed bare-handed, the answer must be nothing but yes. The captain confided that his wife made him train for a month before she proposed to him. He also shared that the tradition has evolved with the times: today, the rule applies even if the person making the proposal is... a woman!

In the End

Time has passed, Vlad has grown, and adopted a new look. But the memories of that day are etched in our hearts and minds. Our love for Brittany has only deepened after that day.