THE CITY OF BLOIS, FRANCE

Blois is more than just a city. Blois is History, Magic, and Water.

Blois is the Denis Papin staircase, the "Hanging House," and the magnificent landscape visible from the terrace of Jardin de l’Évêché (the Bishop's Garden in English).

What follows is not a guide on how to get to Blois, its history, or other details easily found online. Instead, I will share how we experienced our visits to this magnificent city.

Our Visits

The first time was in 2015—just me, Angelo, and my two children, Radu and Vlad. Our visit was part of a cycling journey along the Loire River, following its course to explore the magnificent châteaux built along its banks. We arrived in Blois via the dedicated cycling route, with the city’s famous Royal Château as our destination.

On the upper right are Radu, my eldest son, and Vlad, his younger brother. And, of course, their ‘magic’ bicycles.

In 2015, delighted by our visit, we left Blois with a firm intention to return. And so we did at the end of 2023, this time with my wife by my side. Our children, now grown, joined us as well. We spent three days in Blois, admiring the château and the city, beautifully adorned for the year-end festivities.

Below, Vlad on the left and Radu on the right—seven years later.

The Jacques-Gabriel Bridge

Since Blois stretches across both banks of the Loire, three bridges connect the two sides of the city. The Jacques-Gabriel Bridge is the oldest and most spectacular. Originally built in 1716, it was partially destroyed during World War II. Fortunately, the city chose to rebuild it entirely according to the original plans, preserving its historic design. Each time we visited Blois, we crossed this bridge—a true work of art.

Walking across it is a must—not only for its majesty but also because it serves as a prelude to the splendor that awaits in the magnificent château.

The Château of Blois

The Royal Château is, of course, the highlight of any visit to the city. A royal residence for several centuries, it housed kings such as Louis XII, Francis I, and Henry IV, as well as queens like Anne of Brittany, Catherine de’ Medici, and Marie de’ Medici—some of France’s most influential monarchs. Gaston d’Orléans, the brother of King Louis XIII, also left his mark on the château. The main entrance sets the tone from the outset, with King Louis XII depicted on horseback above the gate.

Before stepping into the inner courtyard, visitors are invited to admire the emblems and gargoyles that once adorned the château. These are now preserved in a dedicated room for conservation purposes. A special mention must be made of the gargoyles: beyond their function as water spouts, they were also believed to protect the château from "evil spirits."

Once we enter the grand inner courtyard of the château, we can see its three wings, each with its own architectural style: Gothic on the left (Louis XII), Classical at the back (Gaston d'Orléans), and Renaissance on the right (Francis I).

It's difficult to decide which side to enter the château from. In 2015, we chose to enter through the Renaissance wing. The spiral staircase, part of which is located on the outside, was an attraction we couldn’t resist. And it must be said that the interior is just as stunning as the exterior. We admired the graceful curves of the staircase, of course, but also the magnificent stained glass windows.

The rooms are large and luxurious, and the furniture is in perfect condition. The emblems of various French kings are found throughout, reminding us at almost every step that this château was once a royal residence.

This château belonged equally to queens, not just kings. Therefore, there are many elements that remind us of their lives, customs, and passions. A remarkable initiative to celebrate Christmas and the year-end: the queens' dresses are displayed alongside Christmas trees adorned with matching garlands.

We move from room to room, strolling through corridors and carefully observing everything around us. The walls are covered with tapestries and paintings, and each room features a richly decorated fireplace. The furniture is original or has been fully restored. We admire the marble busts of kings and the paintings of the kings and queens who once lived in the château. During our 2023 visit, we found the collection of Chinese porcelain that we had first discovered in 2015. It seems even more beautiful now than when we first saw it.

The visit concludes with the old part of the château, the fortress that was once the original castle before it became a royal residence. There is still a tower worth seeing, and we stroll along the terrace that belongs to it. Below, we can see part of the city and the Loire River.

With these images still fresh in our minds, we begin to slowly leave the place. On the other side of the Castle Square (Place du Château in French), in front of us, stands a "House" unlike any other.

The House of Magic

This is a temple dedicated to magic, illusionism, and their history. Built on five levels, it is nicknamed the "Houdini House" in honor of the greatest magician of all time. It tells the story of his life, his magical "tools," his achievements, and much more. There are also rooms with special magical effects. Magic shows and "mentalism," the latest form of magic recently developed, are presented multiple times a day, much to the delight of visitors, both children and adults.

Blois at Night

In 2023, we found ourselves in a city adorned with magnificent lights. The Christmas market is, of course, set up in front of the château, which, in my opinion, is the best location. The banks of the river are also beautifully illuminated. We also encounter giant snow globes, light garlands, and other similar decorations. At the end of the year, Blois appears dressed in festive attire, with lights and colors that are varied and splendid.

Strolling Through Blois

The last day was dedicated to a long walk through the city. Of course, we started the day by visiting a bakery (Boulangerie in French). After that, we stopped and had some fun in front of some of the charming shop windows in the city. The bursts of laughter, bordering on hysteria, came from a window promoting "Sologne Hunting" (Sologne is the name of the region where Blois is located). We couldn’t help but imagine what might happen if vegans and vegetarians happened to pass by!

We then climbed the Denis Papin staircase, took photos, and marveled at the beauty of the place. The narrow streets testify to a different era and lead us to the Jardin de l’Évêché.

The entrance to the park is flanked by an imposing church. The park itself is protected by Joan of Arc, a striking statue of her reminding us that she stopped here and spent a few days on her way to Orléans, waiting for reinforcements. In Orléans, in 1429, the French troops led by Joan of Arc achieved a tremendous victory against the English, marking the turning point in the Hundred Years' War in favor of the French.

Our day, and with it our second visit to Blois, ended here, in this garden, magnificent even in winter.

We returned home, keeping in mind and in our hearts the magnificent images of the Loire and its surroundings seen from up here. It was there that we made a solemn promise to return someday, in the not-too-distant future.