THE MAGIC OF THE BAY OF ISLANDS: A CRUISE TO PARADISE
- angelogeorge988
- Apr 15
- 23 min read
The day begins in Paihia, where calm waters still carry the shadow of nocturnal dreams, and the hush of dawn seems to breathe from the depths of the bay. In this small coastal town, now known as the gateway to the Bay of Islands, echoes of the past drift among the palm fronds and the green hills that watch over the shore.

From Paihia to the Heart of Legend
In the 19th century, Paihia became a meeting point between two worlds: the Māori, rooted in myth and land, and the European, bearing mission and commerce. Here, missionary Henry Williams founded one of New Zealand’s first Anglican missions, and around it, a fragile network of relationships began to form between settlers and the Ngāpuhi tribe. On these shores, the first Christian prayers were spoken in te reo Māori, and the earliest dialogues unfolded between two civilizations embarking on a difficult cohabitation.

Setting Sail
Today, Paihia holds this memory in the quiet of its streets and in the steady gaze of its locals. Wooden houses listen to the sea, and the bay, with its jade and silver reflections, conceals the story of a nation in the making. As the boat leaves the wharf behind, Paihia fades into a postcard image — green hills rise in the distance, and a soft wind stirs, carrying with it the promise of a new story in the salty morning air. Our cruise begins now, bound for the legendary heart of the Bay of Islands, a mosaic of nature and mythology, where every island has a tale to tell.

The Seagull and the Sword: The Story of Kororāreka
We stop for a few dozen minutes in Russell, once known by its Māori name, Kororāreka — “the place where the sweet-singing seagull dwells” — a poetic name that once veiled the tumultuous reality of the 19th century. At that time, the bay’s placid waters reflected not only the sky but also the unrest of a world on the brink of collision.

Kororāreka was a bustling and chaotic port, where whaling ships, traders, sailors, and Māori tribes clashed in a storm of competing interests and tension. British missionaries, witnesses to its excesses, dubbed it “the Hellhole of the Pacific” — a southern Babylon where law often yielded to barter, alcohol, and violence. Despite its disorder, Kororāreka played a pivotal role in shaping colonial New Zealand: it was the first unofficial administrative centre, the first international port, and the stage for some of the most dramatic chapters in the country’s colonial history. It was here that the Flagstaff War (1845–1846) began — a symbolic conflict between Ngāpuhi and the British Crown, when chief Hōne Heke repeatedly cut down the British flagstaff, an act of defiance and a claim for Māori sovereignty.

Today, Russell retains these layers of history in its elegant stillness — in the white-painted timber houses, in Christ Church (New Zealand’s oldest church), and in the re-erected flagstaff on the hill, a symbol of collective memory. The town seems lulled by the spell of marine light, yet beneath this quietude lies the story of a frontier once chaotic, now reconciled — a place where worlds collided, clashed, and, in time, learned to coexist.
Russell is a place where the seascape dominates every corner of the town. The surrounding bay, with its clear waters and soft sandy beaches, offers not only breathtaking views but a deep sense of calm and tranquillity.

Moturoa, the Green Syllable of the Bay
Our next stop is Moturoa — “the long island” — a stretch of land floating upon the quiet bay. Though now privately owned, the island remains cloaked in native vegetation, like a mantle of ancestral silence. Leaves whisper softly, and its gentle contours seem to breathe a distant memory.

In the past, Moturoa was used by branches of the Ngāpuhi iwi as a lookout point, a temporary refuge, and a fishing base. Its location, near the maritime trade route between Paihia and Russell, granted it strategic importance during the contact era between Māori and Europeans. Here, waka laden with fish and kūmara met foreign traders’ boats, bringing not just goods but cultural and economic exchanges. Moturoa was never a centre of settlement or missionary work, but it stood as a quiet witness to the bay’s transformation into a place of encounter between two worlds: one of sea-borne silences and the other of swift transactions. Today, from the deck of our boat, we see it as a green silhouette stretched across the water — an island that seems asleep, yet holds the story of a time when every shore was a threshold between worlds.

Te Rēinga: Returning to the Roots through Black Rocks
Soon, the Black Rocks rise from the deep sea — jagged, dark peaks that appear as relics of an ancient world. These formations are solidified lava flows, remnants of a submarine volcano that once shaped this region with silent power. The sharp shapes of the rocks emerge from the water like ruins of a primordial fire, a reminder of an age when the Earth’s molten core sculpted the land with unyielding force.

In Māori mythology, these rocks are seen as markers between realms — between the world of the living and the world of the gods, between life and death. Each wave crashing against them sings an ancient hymn, in which myths from the deep intertwine with human echoes. In this place, geology meets mythology, and the Black Rocks become more than natural formations — they are a window into the Earth’s past, a trace of the volcano hidden below, whose silent influence continues to shape the region.

Marsden Cross: The Fragile Encounter of Tradition and Colonisation
Our next stop brings us to Marsden Cross, a place steeped in historical and spiritual significance. In a setting of breathtaking beauty, the white cross rises above the landscape, symbolising the beginnings of Christian mission in New Zealand and the fragile encounter between Māori traditions and colonial influence.

In 1814, missionary Samuel Marsden delivered the first Christian service in the country, and this site carries a deep silence where legend and history are tightly woven. Here, the social and religious hierarchies of two cultures were reshaped, and what began under the banner of evangelism evolved into a complex tapestry of learning, resistance, and transformation. Marsden Cross remains a spiritual resting place, where Christianity and indigenous traditions met and profoundly influenced New Zealand’s history. Gazing out to sea, the white cross stands in quiet vigil over the bay, reminding us of the journey undertaken by settlers and Māori iwi — between acceptance and conflict, between faith and doubt.

The Green Song of Restoration: Project Island Song
Project Island Song is a place where nature regains its lost voice and where people relearn the land’s original language. The lush green of the vegetation sings an ancient tune, in the tongues of wind and water — an echo of ancestral wisdom. This island is now a sanctuary for native flora and fauna, a beacon of ecological restoration, where humanity and nature meet in an effort to mend past wrongs.

Here, salvation is not just a practical act but a reconnection with the spirit of place. As we walk beneath the green canopy, we feel a deep bond with the ancestors who once trod this land. Project Island Song symbolises the letting go of past mistakes and a longing to restore harmony between people and nature. Each step on this island becomes a metaphor for rebirth — a quiet lesson in how the world can learn once more to sing in tune with nature’s rhythms.

Sanctuary Island: Motuarohia
Motuarohia, also known as Roberton Island, rises from the clear sea like a hidden pearl, with slopes covered in lush vegetation. The island seems suspended between past and present, a window into a time when nature and people lived in quiet harmony. Before becoming a destination for tourists, Motuarohia was a refuge for the Ngāpuhi tribe, sheltering warriors during times of conflict. The island's rocks still echo the battles of the past, and this sacred place remains a bridge between the world beyond and this one.

Today, Motuarohia is a sanctuary of tranquility, where the wind whispers through ancient trees and nature finds its way back, no matter the times. The rocks, covered in dense vegetation, stand as witnesses to continuous renewal, symbolizing rebirth and resilience. Looking from the shores, the entire world stretches before you, from the origins of legends to the edge of the horizon, where the sea meets the sky.

Moturua: The Island of Healing and Renewal
The trail leads us to Moturua, an island protected by the Department of Conservation, rich in Māori archaeological sites and relics from the Second World War. As we approach, the island reveals a hidden side, accessible only to those who come quietly.

Seen from the boat, Moturua is truly captivating. Its dramatic yet tranquil landscape offers a spectacular view from afar — steep cliffs rising from the sea and lush vegetation covering most of the land. The wind blows gently, carrying with it the salty scent of the sea and the untouched earth, as the boat reaches a shore veiled in green. The cliffs fade into abundant foliage, and the shadows of old trees reflect on the water, inviting silence. The journey becomes a passage into stillness, through a remarkable display of biodiversity. Every step takes us through a natural landscape where native birds sing and the breeze stirs the branches. Moturua is a sacred place, where past and present are deeply entwined. In ancient times, Māori tribes found shelter here — the island bearing witness to both conflict and peace. Today, Moturua remains a sanctuary, its nature nearly intact, and the echo of history felt in every breeze and in every leaf moved by the wind. As we travel along its shoreline, we admire the solitary beauty of this place — a refuge of peace and restoration, where each wave and leaf holds memories of a world once in harmony with the land.

Motukiekie: A World Untouched by Time
Our cruise takes us to Motukiekie, a mysterious island cloaked in vegetation, echoing the silence of a long-forgotten world. Though small and little known, the island asserts its presence with jagged rocks rising from the sea and crystalline waters that envelop it in quiet.

As we take in the landscape, Motukiekie offers a return to the essential truths of the world. It reminds us that true beauty lies in simplicity, and in the silence of places left to exist in harmony with nature. Vegetation spreads across rocky shores, while wind- and wave-carved cliffs stand as silent witnesses to ancient geological forces.This is an island where time seems unhurried, and where nature and history intertwine in profound stillness. In the past, Māori tribes visited Motukiekie for its natural resources and rich fishing grounds. Today, the island remains isolated — a sliver of land holding a sacred hush. As we gaze around, we are once again reminded that beauty resides in quiet places and the timeless rhythm of the wild.

The Magical Gateway of the Bay
We arrive at Otehei Bay, a magical gateway that opens onto an unforgettable panorama. As the boat nears the shore, a wide stretch of clear water reflects the pale blue sky, tracing a fine line between land and sea. A sandy beach gently stretches toward hills blanketed in greenery, and the silhouettes of soft ridges rise in the distance in this tranquil oasis.

The name Otehei, in Māori, means “the place where waves or winds are found,” and its meaning becomes clear as we watch the sea shift rhythm around the bay.Deep, calm waters offer refuge to marine life — and to those in search of peace. Native plants and palms stretch skyward, while the gentle sound of waves brushing the shore creates a serene atmosphere. Otehei Bay was once an important meeting point for Māori tribes, used as a stopover for rest and replenishment during trading voyages. Its rich waters and nearby forests provided shade and shelter for travellers.Today, Otehei Bay is a sanctuary for visitors from around the world, who come to enjoy the landscape and connect with the traditions of this land.As we walk the shoreline, it's easy to imagine ancient seafarers living here, the coast serving as a meeting place between people and nature.Otehei Bay is more than a tourist destination — it is a window into an older era, when land and sea were sacred, and their bond inviolable.

Urupukapuka: The Sacred Refuge
Urupukapuka Island rises from the calm waters of the Bay of Islands — a green sanctuary reaching out into the clear ocean. As we draw near, the contours of the island become more distinct, and its rich vegetation settles into a profound hush.The name Urupukapuka, meaning “island of shelter” or “island surrounded by waters,” reflects its deep connection to nature and to the tribes who once held it as a sacred refuge. In ancient times, Māori tribes sought protection here, and the island bore witness to many significant events in the region.

It served as a hub for maritime trade and a strategic site for defense. The island’s green hills offer sweeping views, while its fine sand beaches and wind-sculpted cliffs stand as masterpieces of nature. The silence is broken only by the sound of waves and the songs of native birds nesting among ancient trees.Once a vital point for navigation and defense, Urupukapuka is now a sanctuary for wildlife and a destination for visitors seeking natural beauty and traditional knowledge. Scattered ruins and remnants of past settlements whisper of the island’s history.Once a fishing camp for the adventurer Zane Grey, Urupukapuka now offers hiking trails, a peaceful café, and idyllic swimming beaches. We climb a short path to admire the stunning panorama — a mosaic of green islands surrounded by the blue of the sea.At the end, we stop at the café for something delicious and to pick up a memento from this gem of the Bay of Islands.

Waewaetorea: The Natural Oasis in the Middle of the Ocean
Waewaetorea Island emerges like a hidden pearl in the Bay of Islands — a sliver of land fiercely protected by nature.Its surrounding waters are so clear that every rock and strand of seaweed appears to float midair, like shadows of what lies beneath.The shoreline is a blend of greenery and sudden cliffs rising from the sea — silent witnesses to ancient geological shifts.

The name Waewaetorea, in Māori, means “the place where waves rest” or “the island where winds find shelter,” evoking a place of refuge where sea and land meet in harmony. In the past, it was considered sacred and served as an important meeting point for Māori expeditions in trade and fishing. Waewaetorea symbolised natural balance — a place where people lived in respect with the rhythms of nature, learning to value its cycles. Today, the island remains a refuge for native birds and a haven for nature lovers. Wind- and water-sculpted cliffs tell stories of the forces that shaped this land over millennia. The untouched landscape reminds us of the simplicity of a world where everything has its place and meaning. On Waewaetorea Island, nature speaks in a quiet language, and we are merely travellers, wrapped in its history and beauty.

Okahu and the Bridge to Divinity
Okahu Island gradually unfolds before the eyes, with smooth shores and vegetation that embraces it like a refuge. Small, yet significant, the island is a place where nature and history dance in a silence full of meaning. The clear waters of the Bay of Islands offer a window to the depths, while the waves gently break on the rocks, echoing the times of the past. The name Okahu in Māori means "the place where spirits gather," reflecting its spiritual significance as a sacred place of meeting and return.

In the past, the island was a spiritual point of contact for Māori tribes, a place where the connection between people, nature, and divinity was celebrated. Here, people learned to appreciate the balance between the physical and spiritual worlds, and traditions were passed down with respect. Today, Okahu is a place of peace and contemplation, where the memories of the past still resonate in every stone. The island symbolizes harmony between humanity and nature, a place where one learns to live in balance with the surrounding environment. The rocky cliffs and hills covered in wild vegetation evoke the feeling of a natural fortress, with deep roots in history and mythology. In this isolated and sacred place, every wave that strikes the shore seems to whisper an ancient tale. The landscape is a reflection on life and our connection to the world around us, a point in the journey where we feel close to the essence of the region and Māori traditions.

Cape Brett Peninsula and the Majesty of the Natural World
Cape Brett Peninsula stretches proudly into the ocean, its rugged contours and cliffs rising like stone columns carved by wind and time. At the very tip of the peninsula, the sea opens into a vast panorama, and the stillness deepens the sense of isolation of this singular place.

For the Māori tribes, the peninsula represented the meeting of oceans, which bring life, and the land, which sustains existence. It was seen as a sacred place, a point of connection between divinity and humanity, where the spirit of the forest and the sea coexisted in deep harmony. The imposing landscape of the peninsula is a lesson in the grandeur and fragility of nature. The bay before us seems like a window into other worlds, and each wave that breaks on the rocks revives a forgotten tale. The sea, vast and deep, is as vulnerable as the land that supports it, reminding us of the tight bond between the two worlds. Cape Brett Peninsula is more than a tourist destination; it is a metaphor for unchanging places, where nature follows its course, and humans are merely passersby. Gazing at this wild and restless landscape, we feel how small we are in the face of its grandeur. The peninsula offers us a glimpse of a primal world, where the ocean and the land continue to shape life and untold stories, leaving us with a silent lesson about the invisible connection between humanity and nature.

The Sisters, Sacred Rocks of the Bay
The Sisters are two towering twin rocks that rise majestically above the water, like statues guarding the entrance to a secret world. These stone peaks are witnesses to an ancient geological eruption, forming natural towers that defy time and gravity. For the Māori tribes, The Sisters symbolize the balance between two opposing yet complementary forces, considered a point of connection between heaven and earth.

Legends say the rocks were created by the gods to reflect the unity between worlds. They carry stories of warriors turned to stone—either as punishment or reward—remaining as monoliths that embody the greatness of those who gave them shape. Gazing upon these rocks, we feel a deep reverence for the natural forces that sculpted them. With forms that echo mythological silhouettes, The Sisters seem to stand watch over the shores since before time began. The waves crashing against them sing a continuous melody, adding new verses to the tale of this sacred place. The Sisters are a place where, for a few moments, we lose ourselves in the legends of an ancient world—in the salt-laced air of the sea and the solemn silence of stone. They are a gift of nature, a place that teaches us about the fragility and grandeur of a world that changes, yet remains anchored in its purest essence.

Bird Rock: Refuge of the Seabirds
Bird Rock is a solitary stone rising from the sea, its silent silhouette set against a vast and wild backdrop. At first glance, it appears a mere scrap of land, but in truth it is a sanctuary for seabirds. The rock thrusts upward with quiet force, its summit dotted with sparse vegetation and its steep walls sheltering countless wild birds.

Its name is no accident—Bird Rock is a nesting ground, a place where birdlife exists in harmony with the ocean that sustains it. The air hums with the whisper of wings and bird calls, in sharp contrast to the heavy silence of the stone. In Māori tradition, Bird Rock is a sacred site symbolising protection and abundance. Here, birds not only find shelter but carry ancestral knowledge, binding sky and earth in a subtle thread of energy. As our boat nears the rock, it looms larger, its colours shifting with the play of light across the sea. At dawn it glows gold, the birds’ silhouettes lending an enchanted air. At sunset it takes on hues of crimson and flame, as if a fire burns in the heart of the water, embracing both land and sky. Bird Rock is a haven for creatures that seek peace and simplicity amid the natural world. Here, we learn that true beauty is found in hidden places, where time has paused, and the bond with the living world is infinite.

Nature’s Gateway – The Hole in the Rock
Motukōkako, with its famed Hole in the Rock, is a place where the elemental powers of nature have carved a breathtaking spectacle, leaving their mark upon this wild landscape. As our boat approaches the towering rock, a hush settles—the air charged with anticipation. In the distance, the outline of the formation appears as a massive archway, a magical gate opening into an ancient world.

The famed Hole in the Rock is a natural limestone arch, sculpted by the endless ocean and unrelenting winds, wide enough for vessels to pass through. It stands as a sentinel of the sea, a bridge between earth and water, both surrendered to the invisible forces of nature.

Seen up close, we feel the fragility of this perfect form—a symbol of the connection between two worlds: one of earth, the other of water. In the moment we pass through this natural portal, the light shifts, and our vessel enters a space where sky and sea embrace in solemn silence. Hole in the Rock becomes a sacred place, a threshold through time, back to days when legend and reality were closely intertwined.

The landscape becomes a masterpiece of forms sculpted by the ocean, and Motukōkako gives us the feeling of having entered a parallel world—one where nature dictates its own rules. The cliffs surrounding us are timeless, yet their fragility reminds us that everything is in constant flux. As we pass through this portal, we feel a profound connection to this place, where nature, in its purest and wildest form, offers us some of its most majestic and mysterious structures.

Within this space, the water grows deeper and more silent, and the sky above reflects in a shade of emerald, creating an atmosphere of peace and reverence. At every turn of the Hole in the Rock, a new breathtaking scene is revealed: jagged cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and an overwhelming stillness. Here, at Motukōkako, the Hole in the Rock becomes a window into a world where ancestral legends come alive, and nature retains its unspoiled mystery and beauty.

The Peace of Parekura Bay
As the vessel moves away from the bustle around Hole in the Rock, the next destination — Parekura Bay — appears as a haven of greenery, a tranquil refuge that contrasts with the energy of the previous places. The calm, crystal-clear water gently sways on the soft shores, and the rocks, retreating into the shadow of coastal forests, seem to sink into a profound silence.

It becomes a corner of untouched nature, where the purifying breeze carries with it a scent of wilderness. Here, the cliffs slowly reveal themselves, the waves flowing gently and gracefully along the shore, and the tranquility of the place is almost tangible. The air is fresh, a blend of the salty sea scents and the woody fragrances of the forest, making us feel a deep connection to the land. The rocks, gentler than those found elsewhere, add a sense of calm, and in this refuge, time seems to have stopped. Parekura Bay is a place where we rediscover ourselves, returning to the essence of a primordial landscape where people and nature have lived in harmony throughout time.

Māori legends tell that Parekura Bay was a gathering and resting place for the tribes of the region, a place protected by a spirit that watches over the bay and its waters. The name of the bay pays homage to this guardian spirit, and those who stepped onto these lands felt a profound connection with their ancestors. The calm waters and the sky meeting the earth remind us of the respect and humility towards what is sacred and valuable. As we approach the shores of Paihia, the cruise nears its end, but Parekura Bay, with its peace and stories, remains deeply engraved in the hearts of those lucky enough to have visited. It is a quiet but meaningful ending, a place that teaches us to appreciate our connection with nature and the history of this land, a place where history and the present intertwine in perfect harmony.

Clear Waters Between Islands
Manawaroa Bay greets us with crystal-clear waters and a shore covered in grass and fine sand, where the sun’s rays dance on the surface of the water like shining crystals. Its name, which translates to "sea quiet," is a promise fulfilled, and the atmosphere of calm and serenity makes this place one of the most picturesque we’ve encountered on this journey.

The cliffs surrounding the bay are illuminated by the afternoon sun, and the lush vegetation stretches toward the shore, creating a beautiful contrast between the light green of the grass and the deep blue of the water. It is a place where you can feel nature’s presence in its purest sense — calm, yet full of life. In this natural refuge, fishing boats are occasionally seen, and the air carries the fresh scent of saltwater and marine plants. Manawaroa Bay is a place where people have lived and fished for centuries, and the same waters that now enchant our eyes have been witnesses to life stories and traditions that have crossed generations. We continue the cruise and arrive at Paroa Bay, another remarkable cove, where the landscape takes on a new dimension. Paroa Bay is a place of rare tranquility, where the sky and sea merge into a subtle palette of colours.

The deep blue water meets the fine sandy beach and cliffs covered with dense vegetation. In this place, you feel as if you’ve entered a sacred refuge, where only the sound of the wind and the waves crashing against the rocks surrounds this secluded bay. Though less known than other nearby locations, Paroa Bay has a unique beauty, quieter and more intimate. Here, around the calm waters, local legends say that silent meetings take place between the spirits of those who lived and inhabited these meadows and waters, and every wave that breaks on the shore seems to bring with it a story from the past, told in the deep language of the sea.

Tapeka Point: A Final View of the Bay and the Peace of the Sea
Tapeka Point, with its cliffs rising from the turquoise waters, offers a final view of the wild and captivating landscape of the bay. It is a narrow strip of land extending into the sea, like a protective arm welcoming the ocean. In these waters, currents and winds converge, offering a deep sense of calm, as if nature is taking a deep breath before closing this chapter of the journey.

Against the backdrop of the water, the cliffs forming Tapeka Point rise with great strength, reminding us of the earth’s stability in the face of the winds and boundless waves of the sea. Now, as the vessel continues its journey toward Paihia, the silence seems to grow denser, and the memories of each stop accompany us as we watch the landscape shift gently. As we approach the shore, the sound of the water becomes calmer, and the waves grow gentler, like a blessing on the journey that has ended.

Finally, Paihia appears before us, set on the bay’s shore with its white houses rising slowly, like reflections in a mirror. In the fresh air at the shoreline, we feel a deep connection to the place and time — a feeling of coming home, after a journey through legends, history, and natural beauty.

Our journey has ended, but the memories of the places we visited, from the 'Hole in the Rock' to the secluded coves and unforgettable landscapes, will remain deeply etched in our souls, like an open window to a world where nature and history shake hands to create a never-ending story. Our cruise has taught us that every island and every rock has a story to tell, and we were just travelers fortunate enough to listen.
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